After a visit to this Hindu temple in Kandy (the cultural capital of Sri Lanka) yesterday, I think I took myself on some form of odd spiritual pilgrimage.
I've been to a lot of temples over the years usually witnessing silent prayers, meditations, occasional festivals, and the rare funeral/cremation. But yesterday was the first time I happened upon what I could only sort as the daily prayers/service at this Hindu temple in town. I've always been drawn into them from their facades (as pictured here). Usually dripping in color, I was particularly attracted to this monochromatic pyramid rising above the relatively tatty architecture of the buildings surrounding it.
Upon entering, I quickly realized this wouldn't be my typical temple experience. About a hundred plus women (and a spattering of men) sat lining a pathway leading to the Vishnu idol. Inside the smaller idol temple, a temple priest was performing a ritual washing/worship. First he covered the statue in what from a distance appeared to be muddy water, then washing it clean. Repeating this many times. He then did the same with milk, only to later wash the statue (idol) clean and dress it with flower garlands.
Around me, women prepared trays of butter candles to set upon alters throughout the temple. As the hour or so progressed, so did the prayers and chanting. We began to rotate the "prayer lines" to the other miniature temples throughout. (I wish I had felt more comfortable documenting this with photos but being the only non-Sri Lankan in the room, I thought best to be respectful). First we moved to Ganesha, then Shiva, then on to two more where my knowledge of Hindu gods failed me on their identities.
So this morning, when I woke I felt this new (probably false given my track record) sense of my ability to "get out there." Following breakfast, my guesthouse asked me my plans for the days. When I told them, they informed me they could arrange a tuk-tuk to take me to all of my destinations for 2,500 rupees (about $20USD), just under my daily budget. I "politely" declined and said I would take the bus, they laughed.
First stop, the Kandy Botanical Gardens. A pretty impressive collection of fauna and flora from all over Asia. I spent about 2 1/2 hours wandering the grounds, being particularly impressed by the ....
They did an impressive job maintaining it!
And while these suckers aren't part of the official exhibit. Oh my lord, I have never seen so many bats. This is one of about five dozen trees at LEAST housing these bats. There were also palm trees, orchids, flowers and some other stuff but we've all been to a botanical garden.
Leaving the gardens I wasn't entirely sure what bus I was hopping on next but it couldn't be too hard right? Right! A couple well pointed one or two word questions and I was off. A change in a junction town onto a smaller bus and down the winding roads I went to Embekka Devale (temple). Jumping off, and hiking just over a kilometer up the road, I arrived.
Built in the 14th century, the temple combines Hinduism and Buddhism (a commonality in all the temples I visited). But the real highlights are the wooden temples taken from the Royal Audience Hall in Kandy. The carvings included wrestling (pictured above), swans, Sinhalese and Portuguese soldiers, dancing women, Elephants, and mythical animal combinations. The lovely caretaker of the temple pointed me on my way, up the hill, through a small Muslim village, over the river and through the woods (rice paddies). Four hilly, swelteringly hot kilometers later...
Built in 1344, Lankatilake Temple sits on top of a pretty substantial hill overlooking the valley and terraced rice fields.
Another 3km down and up and down and up the road, was the Gadaladeniya Temple.
The oldest all granite temple in Sri Lanka. They're now working to preserve the temple, as its suffered a lot of structural damage and erosion from rain and the build up of humidity inside the temple cave itself. The resident artist showed me around the site, explaining to me the significance of the many intricate paintings they are attempting to preserve. Little did I know he was just trying to sell me his replicas, which were admittedly beautiful (I was just in no place to figure out how to carry one back). A couple kilometers on, and I was back at a main road, hopping a bus, and into town an hour later. Mission accomplished.
I have to say, despite being utterly exhausted, the whole excursion was quite satisfying. I ran into very few other tourists at the temples, all of whom came by tuk tuk or air-con taxi. But along my walk I got to take in a lot of the really stunning countryside and meet some pretty nice people. Of course, there were your unmistakable hoards of school children at each site. The mandatory small child waving from the doorframe/balcony/bus window/etc. And more. But along the way, I also met a Buddhist monk who's son is a linecook in a NYC restaurant, a botanist who's entire family lives in Vancouver and best of all these lovely ladies, working the looms I came across in one village.
I've been to a lot of temples over the years usually witnessing silent prayers, meditations, occasional festivals, and the rare funeral/cremation. But yesterday was the first time I happened upon what I could only sort as the daily prayers/service at this Hindu temple in town. I've always been drawn into them from their facades (as pictured here). Usually dripping in color, I was particularly attracted to this monochromatic pyramid rising above the relatively tatty architecture of the buildings surrounding it.
Upon entering, I quickly realized this wouldn't be my typical temple experience. About a hundred plus women (and a spattering of men) sat lining a pathway leading to the Vishnu idol. Inside the smaller idol temple, a temple priest was performing a ritual washing/worship. First he covered the statue in what from a distance appeared to be muddy water, then washing it clean. Repeating this many times. He then did the same with milk, only to later wash the statue (idol) clean and dress it with flower garlands.
Around me, women prepared trays of butter candles to set upon alters throughout the temple. As the hour or so progressed, so did the prayers and chanting. We began to rotate the "prayer lines" to the other miniature temples throughout. (I wish I had felt more comfortable documenting this with photos but being the only non-Sri Lankan in the room, I thought best to be respectful). First we moved to Ganesha, then Shiva, then on to two more where my knowledge of Hindu gods failed me on their identities.
So this morning, when I woke I felt this new (probably false given my track record) sense of my ability to "get out there." Following breakfast, my guesthouse asked me my plans for the days. When I told them, they informed me they could arrange a tuk-tuk to take me to all of my destinations for 2,500 rupees (about $20USD), just under my daily budget. I "politely" declined and said I would take the bus, they laughed.
First stop, the Kandy Botanical Gardens. A pretty impressive collection of fauna and flora from all over Asia. I spent about 2 1/2 hours wandering the grounds, being particularly impressed by the ....
They did an impressive job maintaining it!
And while these suckers aren't part of the official exhibit. Oh my lord, I have never seen so many bats. This is one of about five dozen trees at LEAST housing these bats. There were also palm trees, orchids, flowers and some other stuff but we've all been to a botanical garden.
Leaving the gardens I wasn't entirely sure what bus I was hopping on next but it couldn't be too hard right? Right! A couple well pointed one or two word questions and I was off. A change in a junction town onto a smaller bus and down the winding roads I went to Embekka Devale (temple). Jumping off, and hiking just over a kilometer up the road, I arrived.
Built in the 14th century, the temple combines Hinduism and Buddhism (a commonality in all the temples I visited). But the real highlights are the wooden temples taken from the Royal Audience Hall in Kandy. The carvings included wrestling (pictured above), swans, Sinhalese and Portuguese soldiers, dancing women, Elephants, and mythical animal combinations. The lovely caretaker of the temple pointed me on my way, up the hill, through a small Muslim village, over the river and through the woods (rice paddies). Four hilly, swelteringly hot kilometers later...
Built in 1344, Lankatilake Temple sits on top of a pretty substantial hill overlooking the valley and terraced rice fields.
Another 3km down and up and down and up the road, was the Gadaladeniya Temple.
The oldest all granite temple in Sri Lanka. They're now working to preserve the temple, as its suffered a lot of structural damage and erosion from rain and the build up of humidity inside the temple cave itself. The resident artist showed me around the site, explaining to me the significance of the many intricate paintings they are attempting to preserve. Little did I know he was just trying to sell me his replicas, which were admittedly beautiful (I was just in no place to figure out how to carry one back). A couple kilometers on, and I was back at a main road, hopping a bus, and into town an hour later. Mission accomplished.
I have to say, despite being utterly exhausted, the whole excursion was quite satisfying. I ran into very few other tourists at the temples, all of whom came by tuk tuk or air-con taxi. But along my walk I got to take in a lot of the really stunning countryside and meet some pretty nice people. Of course, there were your unmistakable hoards of school children at each site. The mandatory small child waving from the doorframe/balcony/bus window/etc. And more. But along the way, I also met a Buddhist monk who's son is a linecook in a NYC restaurant, a botanist who's entire family lives in Vancouver and best of all these lovely ladies, working the looms I came across in one village.
Oh yeah, final note : 4 buses to complete the journey. Total cost : 77 rupees (about $0.60USD)
Total savings : 2,433 rupees ($19.40). Winning.
No comments:
Post a Comment